Géraldine and Sandrina are visiting and our trip trough hell to paradise

Since 2 weeks now my friends Gérladine and Sandrina are here from Berlin. Brings back good memories from working together in Dublin that time :) The first week we spend in Blantyre as I was still working. I took both of them to the health clinic in Ndirande where I supervise a group of students in the postnatal ward at the moment. Its not a big Hospital so we were also able to have a look at other departments and the labour ward.

I think it was very interesting for them to see how things are working here in Malawi and for me it was once again a reality check realizing that I already got so used to the standards and circumstances here. No, it is not normal that a woman who just delivered her first baby and has a big wound is going home already the next morning without any follow up at home or care of a community midwife.

Just after a whole week she is given an appointment to come to a quick postnatal check back to the hospital but what happens in the meantime? Baby blues, Jaundice, breastfeeding problems, that happens when they are at home and most of them are pretty much left alone with the whole motherhood issue.

It´s crazy!Health education is what I am focusing on most of all in this area so at least the women know when something goes wrong and can do something about it. So even I haven´t been writing for a while I am still facing the same problems. Change only comes about pang´ono pang´ono – little by little.


In the second week of my friends´ stay I had a week off and off we went to the island of Mozambique in the Indian ocean about 700km away to the east from Blantyre. The journey took us 3 days by public transport, I´m telling you it was crazy!!! Looking back now it was great fun, an amazing experience and I am also happy we survived but let me start from the beginning:

We took off Saturday the 21st of May just after dawn at 6 in the morning. With the minius we went to the neighbouring town Limbe, just 15min away. From there we took a minibus which brought us the whole 100km to the Mozambique border at Mulanje. This ride took longer then we thought as we took an extra loop over Thyolo a little bit further to the south of Blantyre. We were enjoying to see the foggy tea fields in the early morning hours but after 3 hours we were happy to arrive at the border.

After getting our stamp without any problems (I learned out of my mistakes and we had already bought a visa in Blantyre the day before – I just remembered the Unity one bridge visa trip with Andrea and Clara in January haha) we took a bike taxi down the 1.5km dirt track through no-man´s land to the next border office to get a stamp from Mozambique. Bye bye Malawi and hello even poorer Mozambique. The ride on the bikes continued another 3 km to the next town, Milanje. There are two big mountains from which both border towns have their names. Mulanje mountain on the Malawi side, a huge mountain raising out of nowhere surrounded by tea plantations and on the Mozambique side not far from there the Milanje mountain, also quite impressive and surrounded by maize fields and banana plantations. A beautiful landscape!

Well just entered into Mozambique and just arrived at the little town Milanje we had to face our first problem, there was no minibus to Mucuba! I have been to Mocuba before and have done the 200km from there to Mulanje the last time I was in Mozambique with a rented car, it took 4 hours. This time the only option we had if we didn’t want to stay in Milanje or return back home to find another ride and thank god by the help of a very friendly local (we could tell we´re still close to Malawi by the friendliness and helpfulness of that guy) we found a big truck with a nice and trustful driver who was just about to leave for Quelimane and could drop us 15km outside Mocuba as he would pass there anyway.

So with the Mosquito-Spray (in use as pepper spray) in our hand we hoped into the truck to find ourselves in unexpected luxury of a roomy cabin with a cosy double-decker bed and aircondition. Wow! We sat on the bed and off we went. In the beginning the bouncy dirt track down to Mucuba and the promising advise of the driver who said we would only need 3-4 hours was putting us in an euphoric mood but soon our asses were bruised and our mood shaken to awaiting silence when we arrived Mocuba not less than 7 hours later at night.
Thankfully the truck driver (sorry forgot his name) brought us to Mocuba insead of dropping us at the junction and organized 3 motorbike-taxis which brought us to the pensaó we had picked for the night rest. It was 8p.m. and the place was fully booked. Shit! No other recommended accommodation in the Lonely Planet, just the advise: “do what you can to avoid stay over night in Mocuba!” didn’t make us feel any better but luckily we met another friendly local with her boyfriend who helped us to find a hostel for that night by driving us around the town in their car. Really friendly!! After a late dinner we fell in our beds with big hopes to reach the island the next days as we have already managed the dirt track and 1/3 of our way.

Next morning 5 am we got up to be at the minibus-stop nice and early. Original plan: Wait for the big overland bus which usually arrives around 7 a.m., go to Nampula (maybe 3-4 hours) and from there with a minibus to the island (another 3-4 hours) How the plan turned out: Got talked into taking a minibus which was supposed to leave just then at 6:30 a.m. and would go with only one stop all the way to Nampula but leaving just 3 hours later (9:30 am) after getting really angry with the driver that we can not wait any longer and then being dropped off in Alto Ligomha 100km before Nampula which is a street with a few market stands and that at 1 p.m. because the bus was stoping every 500m on the way there. So we found ourselves in the middle of nowhere alone with no option for any other minibus and fading hopes that we would reach the island in daylight. Not very good! So again we had the only option to hitchhike and soon found another truck with a friendly looking driver who said could bring us to Nampula. Unfortunately he had to unload some bags of maize on the way and buy some other things despite the fact that all we could see he was transporting was a little house made out of a ship container. We didn’t ask how many illegal passengers might be travelling in there so we finally arrived in Nampula at 4 p.m. Nampula. What can I say? “Do what you can to avoid staying here even if you need to!” is what came into all of our minds after just a few minutes in this city. The last impression I had from this place in January only got worse this time. In the first hour we saw a car hiting a motorbike with the half dead or maybe dead driver lying on the street, another random person laying in the middle of the street a little further down for whichever reason and finally a man who was just brutally hitting another because that one was breaking down from exhaustion carrying a big pile of wood on his head while running. We couldn’t believe our eyes! What a cruel city packed with desperate looking people all staring at us. We just went to the closest hostel we could find and after a quick dinner (@ Andrea and Clara: this time the place next to the museum was open and it has tasty food! Better then the Pizza place without pizza haha) we went to bed still not on the island but dreaming of it.

Next morning (Monday 23rd) we got up early again and went to the minibus stop to find the recommended chapa (Tanzaniana) leaving supposingly around 5 a.m. but we couldn’t find it and the only person who could speak English told us that the next bus to the island will leave in maybe 3 hours when it has filled up and wouldn’t go all the way to the island so we need to take another minibus from a town close to the sea. No! No more patience, no more waiting, no more wasting of time, we just took a taxi and 2 hours later we finally reached our destination: Ilha de Mozambique!

What a paradise on earth after this journey, an island 2km long and 500m wide, once known as the trading capital of Mozambique and in its gloriest times from the 17th to 19th century it even was capital of Portuguese East Africa. To say it in the words of lonely planet which I can say describes it perfectly: “..Today Mozambique island is an intriguing anomaly – part ghoast town and part lively fishing community. It´s also a picturesque and exceptionally pleasant place to wander around, with graceful pracas rimmed by once-grand charges, colonnaded archways and stately colonial-era buildings lining the quiet, dusty streets of the stone town in the north. In Mukuti Town in the south, with its thatched-roof huts and crush of people, narrow alleyways echo with the sounds of children playing and chickens squawking, while fisherman sit on the beach repairing their long, brightly coloured nets. Since 1991, this cultural melting pot [because of centuries of trade between India, far east, Arabic countries and even Europe and its history of slave trading a great mixture of religious and ethnical groups have been settling on the island] has been an Unesco World Herritage site and, while there are still many crumbling ruins, there´s fresh paint and restoration work aplenty…”
New construction and ruins, yes all right next to each other and how could it be any different, our host from the place we were staying was an architect from Italy who settled here 6 years ago and the time we arrived his wife just delivered their third child. We midwives felt home straight away. (@ Paul: this guy could be quite an inspiration, he had a wonderful house and almost all rooftop terraces or impressive houses on the island were designed by him!) So we stood in a high ceiling, light flooded room with a roofterrace facing the water for breakfast and chill out. Heaven on earth! Just the right place to relax, think and reflect on everything and even better to be there with close friends from Germany! The time on the island flew past. We met another girl in our hostel who was from Sweden, Lovisa, but her father was German and so she could speak german fluently.

Together with her we went on a boat trip through the turquoise water to the next little island Watólofu (Goa Island – because it is the first island you reach when you come from Goa in India which was always an important trading partner back in the 17th century) Goa island is probably as beautiful as Goa itself, with bright white sand, Palm trees and cristal blue water.

Its only attraction, besides the big waves, corrals and shells covering the beach is a light house which we climbed of course to have a fantastic view over the tiny island. We went with a traditional sailing boat, just one big mast vertically and another one cross which is movable in any direction and has the sail attatched to it. The sail is three-cornered and is held by the captain in the stern who is also navigating with the oar. Interesting construction and so flexible that you can always go with the wind. Just without wind you don’t go very fast and so we ended up arriving after dark back in the harbor of Omohipiti (Island of Mozambique).

But being on the water in a silent star clear night is also an experience. There are stars in the sky and so many I´ve only seen up at Mulanje Mountain or that time on Jura on the footbridge. Its amazing but there are also stars in the water! As soon the water gets moved or touched millions of little fluorescent plankton starts glowing and sparkling. Like stardust! It was so beautiful!

Another day we spend wondering around the island and ended up dancing and playing with a bunch of local kids at the beach. They´re so excited about us Azungu and are happy for the few hours attention. In the end they were all getting cuddly and coming closer to check out our hair or skin. Kids are just so pure and innocent, being with them reminds me of my childhood and makes me feel a bit more like a child again. But they didn’t want to go in the water, I wonder why.

After 4 wonderful days on that island we already had to make our way back to Malawi. This time we decided to take another route going by train from Nampula all the way to Cuamba, a little university town close to the Malawi border further north of Blantyre. We went back to ugly Nampula on Thursday evening to buy a ticket and be right on time next morning 4 a.m. to catch the train. What we didn’t expect was that most of the people come to the train station so early to stand in line that when we arrived at 4 we were already far back in line. To wake up we had a little shock after buying some rolls for breakfast as someone tried to grab my purse when I was just putting the change back in it but thank God I had a good grip and the thief didn’t succeed. What an asshole!

After the gates were opened the people stormed into the train and by the time we reached the door it was already packed. Everyone pushing, pulling, panicking to find a seat. It was out of control and on top of that Sandrina´s valet got stolen with all her cards and some money. What a nightmare. We decided to stay at the door of one of the wagons right next to the toilet without a door (initially just a whole in the floor) to get some fresh air and at least were able to sit on top of our luggage. But not for long because soon after departure a fat police guy came to shout at us we were not allowed to sit here and pushed us into the over filled wagon. Crazy! There was no space to breathe but this ruthless guy kept on pushing us. Luckily another passenger offered 2 seats by pushing some baggage aside where Sandrina and Geral could squeeze in covered by baggage and surrounded by loud and drunk guys. Well better than nothing and later we could even squeeze all together on the wooden plank and after the drunk people left we even met some interesting old guys who were absolutely stunned by our camera and the pictures we took with them together. After the 11 hour journey we reached Cuamba just at 4 p.m. and also found a nice place to stay overnight with a lovely host!

Next day we then finally reached Malawi after a 2 hour ride in a minibus over a dirt track with 3 chicken and way too many people as always. But we met a Malawian who helped us to pick the best way back to Blantyre. After crossing the border in Mandimba we reached Chiponde on the Malawi side with a motorbike taxi. From there we took a pick up down the road o Liwonde. (I had a great conversation with Ben, the Malawian guy in the back about travelling and how it is to be flying in a plane. I think he will now start travelling too.

Half way to Liwonde we had to change vehicle and kept on going in a bus as old as my granddad! This monster was roaring so loud no chance to talk but we could watch the beautiful landscape passing by outside and just passed Liwonde NP. At 4 p.m. we were back in Blantyre and happy to take off our backpacks! Home sweet home!
Wow what a journey, it was a great experience! Enjoy the pictures.. :)